How to Choose a Kayak — Everything You Need to Know

Choosing a kayak should be easy, right?  I mean, how many different types of kayaks are there? Well, you’ve got sit-on-tops, sit-insides, recreational, touring, sea, whitewater, portable, fishing, folding, skin-on-frame, inflatable, modular, tandem, pedal, composite, plastic, thermoformed, rotomolded… Point is, it isn’t easy to choose a kayak! But I can help you narrow it down, and it’s worth taking the time to do that, because hopping into the wrong kayak is the single biggest reason people have a crappy, scary, uncomfortable, or just not-fun kayaking experience. Choose the right kayak, and I can almost guarantee you’ll have a great time.

Every kayak recommendation I make follows the same two-step process. Step one: eliminate the kayaks that simply won’t work for you. Step two: choose the one you’ll enjoy the most out of what’s left. Some of the questions you’ll ask yourself relate to preferences. Others are true limiting factors that eliminate whole categories of kayaks, and this is the best place to start.

Start With the Limiting Factors

Where Will You Paddle?

If you answer only one question before buying a kayak, make it this one.

If you’re paddling flatwater, this isn’t much of a limiting factor at all. Almost any kayak will do the job. But here’s the catch: when I say flatwater, I don’t mean water that’s flat right now. I mean water that will always be flat, even if a windstorm or thunderstorm rolls through. Small ponds, small lakes, rivers with mild current if any. We’re talking very flat water.

If you’re not in that world — if you’re on bigger bodies of water where wind can kick up real waves, or on rivers with more than slow current — everything changes. For mild rough water, sit-on-tops are great, because they can’t swamp. If water dumps on the deck of your boat, it drains right back out through the scupper holes. Flip one over? Not a big deal, since it’s filled with air. You can just roll it back upright, climb on, and keep going, or swim it to shore.

Limitations of Sit-Inside Kayaks

Sit-insides are trickier. To handle any type of rough water, a sit-inside really needs two things. First, it needs a cockpit that can take a skirt to keep water out. Second, it needs at least one bulkhead. A bulkhead is a wall inside the kayak that splits it into sections. Without one, your entire boat can fill with water — and a fully swamped kayak is extremely difficult to deal with.

While many basic recreational kayaks don’t have any bulkheads, better ones will often have one immediately behind the seat. This makes a huge difference, because only the front of the kayak will fill with water. The back section, sealed off behind that bulkhead and accessed through a deck hatch, stays full of air. It’s like a giant built-in life jacket for your kayak.

Two bulkheads is even better: one behind the seat, one in front of your feet, so only the central cockpit area floods. This makes for easier rescues, easier reentries, and easier towing. If your kayak doesn’t have bulkheads, you can use float bags instead, as long as they’re secured properly.

Exposed Water Limitation

If you plan on paddling any large or exposed body of water where wind can create substantial waves, you’ve already eliminated a lot of recreational kayaks that don’t have at least one bulkhead. That’s not a bad thing — it just narrows your search to boats built for the conditions you’ll actually face.

How to Choose a Kayak: Hard Shell or Portable?

Is transporting a full-size kayak, or storing one, a major problem for you? If yes, you should be looking for some type of portable kayak. If no, you should be looking at hardshells.

Portable kayaks have come a long way, and there’s a wide variety to choose from now. In fact, they can now accommodate almost any type of paddling — flatwater, sea kayaking, even whitewater. I use them a lot myself when I’m traveling and filming. The Pakayak Bluefin 142 is a 14-foot hardshell sea kayak that’s modular. It has 6 sections that snap together and genuinely performs like a normal kayak.

I’ve also been using the TRAK kayak for almost 20 years. It’s a skin-on-frame kayak. You build the bow and stern frames and slide them into the skin. Three hydraulic jacks then push the frames apart and put the whole kayak under tension.

Inflatables have come a long way too. They used to be pretty simple, but now you get boats like the Sea Eagle 380X, designed to be super stable and handle up to Class 4 whitewater, or the Decathlon X500, which has a real V-hull instead of a flat bottom. Or, you can get an ultra-cheap portable kayak like the Intex Challenger K1 if you’re on a tight budget.

What do you give up with a portable kayak?

While portables have improved a great deal, that portability comes at a price:

Financial — you pay a premium for a portable kayak.

Performance — they don’t perform quite as well, although quality portables are getting close.

Durability — quality portables are surprisingly durable and usually easy to repair, but there’s no denying hardshells are more durable still.

Comfort — portables typically aren’t as comfortable as comparable hardshells, because the outfitting has to be designed to break down, not just for comfort.

Features — portables can’t offer as many features as hardshells.

If you can’t transport or store a traditional kayak, don’t waste time comparing hardshells. Start with portable options instead.

Portability isn’t only about whether a kayak packs into a bag. Length and weight are real considerations too. There’s a big difference carrying or transporting a 17-foot kayak versus a 10-foot one, although length isn’t as much of a limiting issue as weight.

Materials and Weight

Weight can be a very real limiting issue, because if a kayak is too heavy, it can stop you from wanting to go kayaking at all, or from being able to. The range is immense. I’ve tested an 11-foot kayak that weighs 28 pounds (the Oru Kayak Inlet) and a 14-foot kayak that weighs 165 pounds (the Jackson Kayak Knarr). That’s a massive difference. To be fair, that 165-pound Knarr is a fishing kayak loaded with bells and whistles, including a pedal drive system, and most people running a kayak like that launch and land it like a powerboat, off a trailer at a boat launch. But if that’s not your plan, that’s a whole lot of boat to move around.

The biggest factor impacting weight is the material the kayak is made from.

Plastic Kayaks

Are rotomolded kayaks durable? Yes — extremely. The most common kayaks are plastic, made by rotomolding, and you end up with an incredibly durable boat that can take a surprising amount of use and abuse. That’s exactly why whitewater kayaks are made this way. The downside is they’re the heaviest kayaks out there.

Are thermoformed kayaks lighter than rotomolded? Yes, about 20% lighter. They use a thinner, harder plastic that makes the kayak more rigid, which improves performance.

Are thermoformed kayaks as durable as rotomolded? No. You have to take care of them. Hit a rock hard enough, or crank down too hard tying one to your roof rack, and it can crack.

Are blow molded kayaks a good middle ground? Sort of. Blow molded kayaks sit between rotomolded and thermoformed kayaks when it comes to weight. Their downside is that they’re not as hard, stiff, and smooth as thermoformed kayak, nor do they have the durability of rotomolded kayaks. You mostly see this construction on budget-oriented recreational kayaks, because it’s a cheaper manufacturing process.

Composite Kayaks

Are composite kayaks worth the price? For a lot of paddlers, yes. Composite kayaks are made with a combination of fabric and epoxy. This includes fabrics like fiberglass, carbon, Kevlar, and now a company called Melker has introduced more eco-friendly fabrics made from local flax and cork. They’re super stiff and smooth, so they glide through the water beautifully, and they can be incredibly light. The downside is they’re not as durable as rotomolded kayaks, and the lighter they get, the less durable and the more expensive they get. Expect to pay 50% to 200% more for a composite kayak over a comparable rotomolded one.

Will You Paddle a Single Kayak, or a Double (Tandem) Kayak?

Tandem kayaks have real upsides. With two people paddling, they’re faster than a single. The person in front can take a break and you’re still moving. And they level the playing field — two paddlers with very different skill levels can go out together and share the same experience.

The downsides are just as real. You’re stuck with that person for the whole trip, so you’d better like them. You also need to be out there for the same reasons, and a lot of people paddle for different ones. That’s exactly why tandem kayaks have earned the nickname “divorce boats.”

Budget

Budget is also a limiting factor for most people shopping for a kayak. That said, budget doesn’t necessarily limit the type of kayak you choose — it limits the quality and materials the kayak is made from. For that reason, I don’t think budget should factor into your decision until after you’ve nailed down the style of kayak you want. Once you know that, then go find a kayak of that style that fits what you’re willing to spend.

How to Choose a Kayak: Consider Your Preferences

Once you consider limiting factors, these are some other decisions you need to make that will help narrow down the options even further.

Stability vs Speed

Length, width, rocker, and hull shape — these four things drive everything when it comes to stability and speed.

Does length affect stability? No. Length only affects speed. Longer kayaks are faster, shorter kayaks are slower.

Does width affect stability? Yes, significantly. Wider kayaks are slower but more stable. Narrower kayaks are faster but less stable.

What is rocker, and does it affect stability? Rocker is the curve of the hull from bow to stern when you look at it from the side. It doesn’t impact stability at all — it’s entirely about maneuverability. More rocker (more banana shape) means easier turning but a slower boat. Less rocker (a flatter profile) means the kayak will be faster but harder to turn.

If you want stability, look for a wide kayak. If you want a speedy kayak, look for a long and narrow one. Most people like a kayak that’s somewhere closer to the middle, which offers a good blend of stability and performance.

Sit-Inside vs Sit-On-Top

When looking at how to choose a kayak, this decision will really narrow things down for you. It comes down to weighing the pros and cons against what type of paddling you want to do and what matters most to you.

About Sit-on-Tops

Sit-on-tops prioritize stability over speed, and there’s a simple reason for that. You’re sitting on top, so your center of gravity is higher. To be as stable as an equivalent sit-inside, the kayak has to be wider — and wider means slower by nature. Rather than fight that, manufacturers have typically doubled down on stability. As a general rule, sit-on-tops prioritize stability, and give up some performance for it. There are exceptions, but as a whole, that’s the deal.

Sit-on-tops are also genuinely comfortable because they offer a big, open platform, that allows you to move your legs around freely. A lot of quality sit-on-tops have framed seats that lift your butt off the kayak and keeps it dry. It also lifts your butt higher than your heels, which reduces the angle your body’s bent at. That’s easier on people who aren’t flexible in the hamstrings, or who have a bad lower back. They don’t swamp, since they’re full of air and any water that splashes on top can drain through scupper holes. They’re also easier to get onto than a sit-inside kayak, because you don’t need to step down into them.

About Sit-Insides

Sit-inside kayaks win on performance. You’re sitting on the floor of the kayak, and so your center of gravity is lower. This means the kayak can be narrower and still have good stability — and a narrower kayak moves through water more efficiently. As a rule, sit-insides are faster than a comparably stable sit-on-top. You also get more control over the kayak, as you have more touch points with it. I compare sit-on-tops and sit-insides to flip-flops and shoes. A sit-on-top is a flip-flop — you’re just on the platform, without much control. A sit-inside is a shoe. It wraps around you, and the higher-performance ones with thigh hooks and back bands give you serious control, enough to tackle much more aggressive water than you’d take on in a sit-on-top.

Sit-insides also protect you from wind and water. Paddle a sit-on-top and you’ll get wet. Paddle a sit-inside, you don’t have to. They’re harder to get into, but they’re typically about 15% lighter since there’s less material.  There are also more lighter-material options than sit-on-tops, as there are very few thermoformed or composite sit-on-top kayaks on the market.

In the end, it comes back to the shoe versus the flip-flop. Some people want the freedom of the flip-flop. Others want the support, control and protection of the shoe.

Pedal vs Paddle

Pedal kayaks used to be a real novelty. Now almost every major manufacturer makes one.

Are pedal kayaks faster than paddle kayaks? Yes, when comparing two kayaks of the same width and length, most pedal kayaks are actually faster.

Do pedal kayaks free up your hands? Mostly. You still steer with a small toggle on the side, so it’s not fully hands-free, but it’s a lot more free than paddling. Great for fishing, great for photographers and videographers, great for anyone who wants to do something else while they’re out there.

Are pedal kayaks more comfortable? For some people, yes — especially anyone with bad shoulders or a bad back who prefers a reclined position with feet out front. For paddlers with upper body injuries or disabilities, a pedal kayak can be the only realistic option.

Downsides of Pedal Kayaks

There are three real downsides to pedal kayaks. Price is the biggest, because you have to expect to pay at least $750 more for the same boat with a pedal system. You don’t get to save yourself money on a paddler either, as you still need a paddle as backup, in case the drive system fails or the water’s too shallow for it to work. Speaking of which, shallow water and heavy vegetation are the other downsides for pedal drives, since the system needs more depth than a paddle kayak. Maneuverability in tight spots is the third weak point for a lot of pedal kayaks. This is particularly true for those that don’t go in reverse, though the better systems handle this surprisingly well.

Kayak Camping

Want to go kayak camping? You need enough space and weight capacity to carry your gear. Sit-on-tops aren’t usually the best choice for this, since your gear has to ride on top of the kayak, which raises your center of gravity and makes the boat tippier. Sit-insides are better suited, since the gear goes inside the kayak. The best camping kayaks are touring kayaks with two bulkheads — one behind the seat, one in front of your feet — along with hatches for access. That gives you water-resistant stowage, though it’s worth noting these compartments are never truly waterproof. Put anything that needs to stay dry in a drybag.

Kayaking With Dogs

Many people want to know how to choose a kayak that they can bring their dog on. Depending on the dog’s size, you’ll need extra stability and extra capacity to handle them. Sit-on-tops tend to be the best choice here, since they offer lots of open space for a dog to settle into. Some kayaks, like Hurricane’s Osprey series, even have padded zones up front designed specifically for dogs. Sit-insides with large cockpits can also work well, and you benefit from the fact that the dogs center of gravity is lower, which makes the kayak less tippy when they move around.

How to Choose Canoe or a Kayak?

If you’re torn between a canoe and a kayak, there are some great hybrid boats that give you the best of both worlds. Pack boats are canoes you sit in like a kayak — seat and foot pegs included, paddled with a kayak paddle. You get a kayak’s control with a canoe’s tripping space and simplicity. There are even inflatable versions, like the Sea Eagle RazorLite, which are ideal if you can’t transport or store a full-size boat.

Need an Ultra-Portable Kayak?

Packrafts are the most ultra-portable kayaks on the market. They’re built small enough for backpackers to bring along, and they can weigh as little as 5 pounds. Because they’re so portable, they open up water that would otherwise be a serious hassle to reach — and some can even handle real whitewater.

Paddler Size and Fit

Your size will also shape what kayak makes sense. Some kayaks have real limitations on paddler weight or height, and many popular models come in different sizes to suit different-sized paddlers, or to accommodate carrying more gear. Here’s something worth knowing: manufacturers publish a maximum weight capacity, but a kayak’s stability and performance is usually noticeably compromised well before you hit that number. As a general rule, I’d treat a kayak’s functional capacity as about 15-20% less than its posted maximum. So if a kayak is rated for 300 pounds, I’d suggest anyone over 250 pounds look at a different boat.

How to Choose Kayak Materials: Quick Answers

How to Choose a Kayak: The Biggest Mistakes People Make

After decades of helping people choose kayaks, the same mistakes come up again and again:

Buying a kayak they’ll soon outgrow. People often buy the kayak that’s perfect for their immediate needs, without considering whether it will still be the right kayak as they become more proficient at paddling.  This often results in paddlers needing to upgrade their kayak sooner than they’d like.

Buying the cheapest paddle. The kayak matters, but a bad paddle makes every single stroke harder. This is the most commonly under-budgeted piece of gear.

Choosing based on color instead of fit. It happens more than you’d think, and it’s a fast way to end up with a boat that doesn’t suit how or where you actually paddle.

Buying more kayak than they need. A high-performance touring kayak in the hands of someone who wants a relaxing day on the water without worrying about flipping.

Buying a kayak that’s too heavy to actually use. The best kayak is the one you’ll get on the water regularly. If it’s too heavy to load by yourself, it stays in the garage.

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Kayak Types at a Glance: How to Choose a Kayak

Recreational Kayaks

Recreational kayaks represent the broadest range, and the most common type of kayak on the market. They come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, materials, and styles, but they’re all designed to be stable and easy to use. They’re ideal for people happy to give up some performance for a more comfortable, more stable kayak that’s less likely to capsize.

Recreational kayaks run 9 to 12 feet in length and 28 to 39 inches wide. They’re available sit-on-top or sit-inside, as singles, tandems, and occasionally three-plus-paddler configurations, in a variety of materials, and in both hardshell and portable styles.

Touring and Sea Kayaks

Touring and sea kayaks are the long-distance haulers of the kayak world. Over 14 feet, narrow, and built for efficient tracking rather than tight turns, with a covered deck and a cockpit sized for a spray skirt to keep you dry in rough water. Most have two or three sealed bulkheads for safety and gear storage, and many use a rudder or skeg to help the boat track straight and fight weathercocking when the wind picks up. If you’re planning a multi-day trip, coastal touring, or just want a boat that holds a straight line on a big lake, this is the category.

Fishing Kayaks

Fishing kayaks are built around stability and gear management first. Wide, flat hulls give you the confidence to cast — and sometimes even stand — without worrying about tipping. Rod holders keep your rods secure and within reach, and tank wells or dry hatches handle tackle. Most are sit-on-tops for the open access they give you to gear, though sit-inside fishing kayaks exist for paddlers who want a lower center of gravity in rougher conditions. Many are now built pedal-drive to keep your hands free for casting.

Tandem Kayaks

Two paddlers, one boat. Faster than a single when you’re both paddling, and the front paddler can take a break without stopping the boat. They’re also a great equalizer for two people with different skill levels. Just know what you’re getting into — you’re committed to that other person for the whole trip, which is exactly why these have earned the nickname “divorce boats.”

Whitewater Kayaks

Whitewater kayaks are short, high-performance boats built to be maneuverable and shrug off rocks rather than track straight. They break down into a few main types: creek boats (high volume, lots of rocker, built to stay on top of the water in steep technical rapids), river runners (versatile all-rounders good for general downriver paddling), and playboats or freestyle boats (short, low-volume, built for surfing waves and throwing tricks rather than covering distance). Nearly all are rotomolded, since that’s the only material that holds up to being bounced off rocks day after day.

Portable Kayaks (Inflatables, Folding, and Modular)

This category covers modular hardshells built from sections that snap together, skin-on-frame kayaks tensioned around a frame, and increasingly capable inflatables. I use these myself when I’m traveling, and the development over the last ten years has been remarkable. You’ll give up a bit on performance, durability, and comfort compared to a full hardshell, and weight varies enormously — I’ve tested similar-length portables anywhere from 20 to 50 pounds.

Final Advice On How To Choose A Kayak

The best kayak isn’t the fastest, lightest, or most expensive. It’s the one you’ll actually use.

Start with the limiting factors. Narrow the field. Work through your preferences to find a style of kayak that makes you excited to get on the water. This is the point that you need to consider your budget, as most kayaks come in a variety of price ranges, with materials and features causing boats to go up or down in price.

Once you’ve worked through this, my last piece of advice is to take everything here and go visit a specialty paddlesports retailer. Ask them questions about how to choose a kayak, sit in some kayaks, and if you’re buying a hardshell kayak, make sure you also budget for a roof rack to transport your new toy home!

Watch my video about how to choose a kayak.

About Ken Whiting

Author, Ken Whiting, is the Host of the Facing Waves TV series, @PaddleTV YouTube channel, @KenWhitingAdventures YouTube channel, @GoPaddle Facebook page and @Paddle365 Instagram page. www.kenwhiting.ca