A 3-Day Backcountry Trip in Killarney Provincial Park: Paddling to OSA Lake
Trip Report
Killarney Provincial Park is one of my favorite places on earth, and this spring I finally got to return after a year off the water. A frozen shoulder kept me sidelined through a good portion of last summer, so this trip was as much about getting back into a boat as it was about the destination.
The Destination – OSA Lake
The destination happened to be OSA Lake, a lake I’d somehow never paddled to despite years of trips into Killarney. It’s a lake a lot of experienced Killarney paddlers point to as the most beautiful in the park, and some will tell you it’s the most beautiful lake in the country. I wanted to see for myself.
What makes Killarney unlike anywhere else I’ve paddled is the La Cloche mountain range. White quartzite ridges rise straight out of colorful, clear-bottomed lakes, connected by beautiful (though sometimes steep), wooded portage trails. It’s also one of the most accessible backcountry parks around. Outfitters like Killarney Outfitters can set you up with gear rentals, shuttles, and even meal plans. And there are routes here for everyone, from car camping enthusiasts, to those looking for serious backcountry adventures. Cross the road and you’ve got Georgian Bay, one of the best freshwater sea kayaking destinations anywhere. Between the Park and the Bay, you’re looking at world-class canoe tripping, world-class kayak touring, and some of the best hiking and backpacking in Ontario, all within a few minutes of each other.
Trip Details
This trip was three days and two nights, timed during the second half of May to beat the blackflies. It was also my first time bringing an inflatable kayak, the Sea Eagle 393rl, on a canoe-tripping route. After testing and reviewing it a couple of years ago, I felt that it might work well for lake-to-lake travel. It paddles a lot like a packboat — the open deck and cargo capacity of a canoe, combined with the low seated position and double-blade efficiency of a kayak. I wanted to find out if that held up over a real multi-day trip, portages included.
Quick Trip Facts
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Route | George Lake → Freeland Lake → Killarney Lake → OSA Lake |
| Distance (one-way) | 10 km |
| Portages | 3 portages, 750 m total |
| Duration | 3 days, 2 nights |
| Difficulty | Novice / Intermediate |
| Best Timing | May 1 – Nov 1 |
| Access Point | George Lake |
| Boat Used | Sea Eagle 393rl (inflatable kayak) |
The Beauty of Killarney
It’s also one of the most beautiful lakes you’ll ever see.
About Killarney Provincial Park
Killarney Provincial Park sits on the northern shore of Georgian Bay, about a five-hour drive from Toronto and Ottawa, and roughly 100 km southwest of Sudbury. The park is built around the La Cloche mountain range, a stretch of white quartzite ridges that drop straight into clear, blue-green lakes. It’s a combination you don’t get anywhere else in Ontario. Killarney was established in 1964 after a group of Group of Seven painters lobbied to protect the area they’d been painting for decades. It’s easy to see why. The quartzite hills, pink granite shoreline, and turquoise water look almost unreal in person, and they’re the reason many people call Killarney the crown jewel of the Ontario Parks system.
The park has more than 50 interior lakes connected by portages, which makes it one of the best canoe-tripping destinations in the country. Access is easy from George Lake, the main campground and put-in point. Outfitters like Killarney Outfitters can handle gear rentals, shuttles, and meal planning if you don’t want/can’t bring your own gear. For hikers, the 100-km La Cloche Silhouette Trail loops through the same mountain range on foot. And if you cross Highway 637 out of the park, you’re on Georgian Bay, which opens up incredible opportunities for sea kayaking.
The Route: George Lake to OSA Lake
The classic way into OSA Lake starts at George Lake, the main access point and campground inside the park. From there, the route runs George Lake → Freeland Lake → Killarney Lake → OSA Lake, covering 10 km one-way with three portages totaling around 750 m. I’d rate the route appropriate for novice to intermediate paddlers, but well worth the effort for any paddler.
The distance and portage load make this a comfortable multi-day outing rather than a marathon backcountry adventure. Along the way there’s the opportunity to hike from Killarney Lake to the Crack, which is well worth the side trip. The hike takes you through beautiful wilderness and ends with a jaw dropping scenic view point. Once you’re on OSA, the payoff is immediate — quartzite peaks framing the lake on nearly every side, with a handful of campsites (including a well-known island site) that put you right in the middle of that view for the night.
Killarney Provincial Park Timing: Paddling in May
I picked mid May for this trip specifically to beat the bugs, and it mostly worked. Black flies usually show up in Killarney sometime between mid- and late May. I saw a few more of them every day I was out there, but I knew the worst was to come over the following few weeks. Mosquitoes are on a different timeline. They generally don’t become a problem until mid-June, and they mostly taper off by early August. An early trip like this one lets you dodge both bug seasons entirely. While this is ideal, I have to stress that you don’t need to avoid the park during bug season – you just need to come equipped to protect yourself from them.
Timing matters for booking, too, not just bugs. Ontario Parks lets you reserve backcountry sites up to six months ahead of your trip, and in Killarney that window is worth using. Weekends through June, July, August, and September fill up fast, and July and August are busy every single day, not just weekends. If you want any real choice in which lake or campsite you land on, book as early as you can. A route like OSA Lake is popular enough that you can expect it to get booked out during peak season. That being said, there are always last minute cancelations, especially if the weather forecast is less than ideal. If you have the flexibility to do a trip on short notice, keep your eye on the reservations for any short term openings.
Gear Note: Using an Inflatable Kayak on a Canoe Trip
I brought the Sea Eagle 393rl on this trip instead of a canoe, with the idea that it offers the advantages of kayaks and canoes. More specifically, the open deck provides the cargo space of a canoe. But, the low sitting position provides the stability of a kayak. The use of a kayak paddle would also provide more power and control.
Cargo Space
For cargo, the 393rl had enough room for a typical canoe trip’s worth of gear. I fit one large barrel, one small barrel, and some extras without real issue. If you’re planning a longer trip or need to carry bulkier gear, the larger Sea Eagle 473rl might actually be the better call, since it has more storage space and moves faster on the water.
Performance
On open water, the 393rl tracked very well, even without using the removable skeg. I left the skeg off on purpose, since it can be a liability when getting in and out at portages. The skeg likely would have improved tracking even further, but the boat held its line well without it. Compared to a canoe, the low seated position made it feel more stable overall, and the double-blade paddle gave me better travel speed and control, especially when the wind picked up.
Portaging
On the portages under 100 metres, the 393rl was easy to carry. I just grabbed the center handle and carried it under my arm like a SUP. For anything longer than that, it got tougher, because the 393rl doesn’t come with a yoke. This means you’re stuck carrying the kayak by hand rather than distributing the weight across your shoulders the way a canoe yoke lets you do. A removable yoke, like the ones packboats use, would solve that issue. And so, this is my plea to Sea Eagle to make that accessory an option.
Killarney Provincial Park – FAQ
Is OSA Lake worth the portages? Yes — OSA Lake is widely considered one of the most beautiful lakes in Killarney Provincial Park, with quartzite peaks framing the water on nearly every side. Getting there from George Lake is a novice-to-intermediate route with three short portages, although wind can have a major impact on your travel.
How long does it take to paddle to OSA Lake from George Lake? The route from George Lake to OSA Lake covers 10 km one-way through Freeland Lake and Killarney Lake, with three portages totaling 750 m, and most paddlers can cover it in a day as part of a multi-day trip, although a headwind can make it a lot tougher.
Is Killarney Provincial Park good for beginner backcountry paddlers? Killarney Provincial Park works well for beginner and intermediate backcountry paddlers, because it has so many reasonable options, and outfitters like Killarney Outfitters can supply gear, shuttles, and meal plans for paddlers who want extra support.
When do the black flies and mosquitos happen in Killarney Provincial Park? Black flies in Killarney Provincial Park typically last between mid-to-late May and mid-to-late June, while mosquitoes last from mid-June to early August.
Can you use an inflatable kayak for backcountry canoe tripping in Killarney? Yes — an inflatable kayak like the Sea Eagle 393rl works well for backcountry canoe tripping in Killarney Provincial Park, carrying enough gear for a typical multi-day trip and tracking well on open water, though a removable yoke would make longer portages much easier than carrying it by hand.
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About Ken Whiting
Author, Ken Whiting, is the Host of the Facing Waves TV series, @PaddleTV YouTube channel, @KenWhitingAdventures YouTube channel, @GoPaddle Facebook page and @Paddle365 Instagram page. www.kenwhiting.ca
